Foundation: what is
The need of covering up skin flaws such as wrinkles, scars and blemishes initiated the research and formulation of covering makeup products known as foundations.
Foundations are emulsions made of oils, fats and pigments (colorants) with masking properties. Recently silicones were added to make the emulsions more smooth and pleasant to the touch, and acrylates to make them more stable.
Silicones, in fact, brings a better sensory effect by making the foundation less sticky and more easily spreadable, whereas acrylates have the ability to modify the thickness from fluid to rich and pasty.
However, these improvements come with few drawbacks and with long term and frequent use they have generated skin problems, especially for sensitive skin.
Negative properties of foundations
- They are occlusive – do not let the skin to breathe.
- They are comedogenic – they penetrate the skin pores creating irritation, blackheads and acne.
- They interfere with the normal and healthy desquamation (skin cells turnover), therefore they induce the thickening of the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum)
- They are not easy to rinse – in fact silicones and acrylates cannot be emulsified by regular detergents and residues will deposits in the skin pores and will accumulate overtime.
Skin problems due to the use of foundations
The use of foundation has created or worsened many skin problems such as:
- Thickening of the stratum corneum
- White/yellow blemishes due to the skin inability to breathe
- Blemishes due to the excessive absorption of foundation’s pigments
- Comedones (whiteheads or blackheads) and micro-cyst due to irritation of the follicles
- Seborrheic dermatitis for excessive harmful synthetic fats such as mineral oils, petroleum derivatives, waxes, silicones and more
- Enlargement of skin pores due to the occlusion and deposits of synthetic fats
Since the use of foundation generate the above-mentioned problem and considering the fact that who uses it do so to mask imperfection it becomes clear that when the use starts it cannot be suspended. It quickly becomes a vicious circle with the following sequence of events:
Skin imperfections > covering/masking with foundation > creating more problems with the wrong foundation > covering/masking again with foundation.
Dermatologists observed that the majority of patients cannot suspend the use of foundation even if they are aware of the negative effects of it: a true dependency.
Foundation dependency and acne
Foundation dependency becomes very problematic when teens or adult women suffer from acne.
Acne, at a young age or later in years, creates a true aesthetic damage and resorting to a masking product is an instinctive step. Unfortunately, is especially in this skin condition that the use of foundation is very harmful resulting in the worsening of the condition, thus falling into the dependency trap, but in this case a very dangerous trap. In fact, the above mentioned synthetic fats will act as blockers for skin breathability occluding the skin pores and residues will increase acne and irritation.
From foundation to BB creams
Recently new products have been introduced to the market with a generic name of “Blemish Balm” or “BB” cream for short, with the idea of creating a multitasking product able to mask imperfection and at the same time moisturize and protect the skin from the sun. It seemed a great idea in theory, but the practical effects were less encouraging than expected. In fact, on top of the already known negative effects of foundations, were added the chemical formulation of sun blockers (not well tolerated by the skin) and the same filters need a more complex bonding formulation of synthetic fats and emulsifiers resulting in a more damaging formula for the skin. The typical “cakey” feeling after application is a clear sign of the product containing these harmful ingredients. A good, healthy foundation should provide optimal coverage without interfering with skin breathability and leaving a weightless feeling.
From foundation to Most Color Clay
Clay instead of synthetic colorants
MOST researchers have formulated a foundation to respond to the need of covering and masking skin imperfection for patients affected by the skin condition such as acne, cancer treatments, Seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and many others, without causing more harm to an already damaged skin.
Most Clay Color is a covering formulation without synthetic fats, silicones, acrylate and synthetic colorants, using the natural shades of clays mixed with plant base polyglycerols that is not only able to deliver an optimal coverage but will also not penetrate in the skin pores and can be removed with a simple wash leaving not residues behind.